Final day of walking Britain in 2026: 14 miles today, and 782 miles over 64 walking days. That’s a lot of steps; and while there are no really high peaks by international standards here, this a hilly country and towns were often in valleys and the coastlines are rugged so those miles included much ascent and descent. I’m going to reflect more upon the whole trip tomorrow, on the six hour train to Cambridge. This post is about today.
And oh my goodness, what a day! Blue skies, warm temperature, calm waters again today on the bay of the Firth of Forth. Absolutely unbelievably great luck with the weather this week. We left the caravan holiday park about 9am, excited to be headed for the big, beautiful city of Edinburgh. We followed the coastline for a few hours, walking on the beach, over some rocks and pathways in dunes when the sand ran out. We passed through the small harbors of Cockenzie. One was manmade and was still an active fishing location, but quiet on a Sunday. The water reflected like glass and there were just a couple fishermen out near the lobster traps. Then we came across the original natural harbor, this morning being used by some women who had just come out after a cool water swim.
The long, curved cement promenade continued with interesting sights out to the water (I finally saw a colony of eider ducks!), and along the sea wall and buildings that ran right up to the water’s edge. There was a very old mural advertising the local salt production facilities, I assume to the ships coming into port, since it could only be seen from the waterside. I found especially curious the use of hard materials to build the sea defenses, combining the natural forms of the coastal rocks and cement or bricks, and where the original buildings were failing the many attempts at patchwork and repairs over the years. It was still morning, but the sun was bright, there was little shade, and it was growing hot. As we walked, the edges of Edinburgh’s buildings and the prominent Arthur’s Seat grew clearer. We were grateful for the places where the promenade formed a bridge between pools of water and the bay as there was a fresh relief of cool air.
The path turned inland for a bit as we came to the large substation that processes offshore wind energy. From there we walked through a section of Prestonpans (‘pans’ indicating the important role the town played in salt production over the centuries); a town that I loved was famous for its murals and tapestries. I did see a couple of the murals, one crazy one an homage to a story by beloved Scottish poet Robert Burns. The town has evidently, but quite a few years ago now, received recognition for being a fine place for its elderly citizens.
We had been walking about four hours, and were growing a bit weary. We chatted briefly with a local man while his dog waited patiently to resume ball games as we neared Musselburgh. This town of many bridges over the River Esk, ones that we crisscrossed looking for a place to sit, rest, and eat lunch, is just on the edges of Edinburgh. Reenergized from avocado toast, pancakes and coffee, we headed out along the roads that led further towards our destination. Signs, particularly an old stone one, were looking good that we were getting closer to the end of the walk for the day. Coming into Edinburgh, the John Muir Way gratefully turned us into shaded paths off the busy streets.
The shade lasted about an hour, but then we were in the sun again, and sharing the path with a busy bicycle route. It was rather exhausting and nerve-wracking to hear the ding-ding of bells and jump to the edge of the asphalt continuously. We passed next to Arthur’s Seat, not as imposing when right up close to it; and of course we walked next to yet one more golf course. We saw a long tunnel ahead, and the inviting coolness drew us in. It diverted from our planned route, but the brief relief from the heat was too great an enticement. Coming out after taking just over 600 steps (we counted - had a little contest guessing how many it would take. Annegret estimated correctly, which after walking hundreds of thousand of steps I thought I might have a better chance at victory), we arrived into the center of Edinburgh.
We navigated through crowds of tourists, avoided being hit by buses and taxis; it was nearly overstimulating to be in such busy chaos after months of countryside and few people. But Edinburgh is a beautiful city, and I have not been here in more than twenty years, so I was buoyed along with energy. We crossed the Royal Mile, and I ducked into a little shop to grab a new t-shirt because I just can’t bear to get on the train tomorrow wearing the grimy, sweaty shirt I’ve worn on the trail for three months.
Up and down some of the city’s famous hills, we arrived to the neighborhood of the renowned botanical garden, and our rest for the night. Our host welcomed us into her gorgeous, tall Victorian home, served us tea in the garden, and I sighed with an enormous sense of contentment and relief. After showers and lying down for a bit, we headed out for dinner and a toast to many, many miles happily and successfully walked.
