Very interesting almost 7 mile walk today, that was supposed to be 16.2 miles. My foot was sore from a threatening blister last night, and when I woke it was full on red and very angry. What to do? I had to walk over the Quantocks, and then a long traipse into Bridgwater and the start of the Somerset Levels. I mentioned my concerns to my BnB host at breakfast and she suggested I could walk to Nether Stowey, about 7.5 miles and just on the other side of the hills, then take a local bus the rest of the way. This is the view I had of the climb I was heading into from yesterday’s walk.
As I’ve mentioned before, I’m not a purist about my foot touching down every inch of the way to Scotland, so I thought it a good solution and a local rural bus sounded fun. As I walked out the door this morning, my host’s sister told me I might see the free community bus. It’s like a community secret in that all the villages know but it’s not advertised in bus schedules. It’s a fleet of unmarked white buses that go between Minehead and Bridgwater, paid for by EDF who are building the Hinkley Point C nuclear and other alternative fuel center and run by the local bus company. I guess the Hinkley Point C project has infused a ton of improvements to the area: housing, transportation, jobs, education, recreation, village halls, and I guess this supports positive feelings of the local people as well as all the new energy workers moving in. I’m sure it’s controversial economically (I think the whole country has had their energy bills raised to support it) and environmentally, but it is the wave of the future because fossil fuels are going the way of the dinosaurs before them. And everyone I talked to all day seems very pleased with the improvements to these rural communities. And… I caught the bus! Before I reached Nether Stowey, so my feet were saved!
My walking journey before that, though, was really pleasant. I started off by popping into the medieval church in Stogumber to see its beautiful painted ceiling and 18th century chandelier. I also got to see its volunteer cleaner keeping it all spiffy! As I walked, I went from cursing myself for planning so poorly that I hadn’t added an extra day of rest for this section, to happy I was presented with an alternative. While I was considering this turn of events, I passed a cottage with the name ‘Providence Way’. It made me chuckle because of the word’s two meanings: my improvidential planning had created a problem in not allowing time sufficient for me to rest, and of course the providence and care of God for stepping up to make it all right. And there were duck eggs for sale! Not that I wanted any at the moment, but I just thought it was a fun change of pace from the free range chicken variety.
I followed the SW Macmillan Trail (an extensive set of trails all over the country to support cancer research by selling guidebooks and to encourage people to get out in the fresh air), and a bit of the Coleridge Trail again. Part of the trail was on roads and I picked up a sweet little ladybug trying to walk across before it was squished. I’m thinking now why didn’t it just fly over the tarmac? I was worried at one point because a turn off that expected wasn’t appearing, and then I saw a couple pop out of the hedge a ways ahead of me. They were holding hands, laughing, beamed a good morning to me. I couldn’t resist and had to take a quick photo as they walked away. Pure love and contentment. At another point more joy when the way was clearly marked and made easy to walk through by the landowner. So thoughtful!
Eventually, I made it to The Old Vicarage Hotel with plenty of time to wander around town in the glorious sunshine. (The weather this week has been amazing! Sunny and 65+ degrees! While it’s been raining in California?!) The hotel is fascinating, oldest building in Bridgwater - the part I’m in dates from 1296, and at some point a wig closet was added to my room when fancy headwear was the fashion. The town is a little depressing- on one block in the center is a row comprising a financial advising company, a pawnshop, a betting establishment, and a bank. That seems an odd collection to me. There are many empty or boarded up buildings. Supposedly it’s on its way out of a bad period (thanks Hinkley Power Plant C), but still glum at the moment. I did have a fancy cup of tea at the hotel, so that was a bright spot!
