15 miles in 6 1/2 hrs, including a 30 min lunch sheltered in a quiet, old church in Hayle. I’m a little more spent than I expected this evening. We had planned on walking 11 miles, but things happen. The trail today was not super well marked, we took a few wrong turns (one of which had us spying an adorable big grey seal just bobbing around close to the shore, so that was a plus.)
My friend Suzanne joined us and filled us in all things Cornish as we walked through the area in which she grew up. We passed by the home where she was born in St. Ives, the little craft shop where she sells her beautiful glass sculptures (https://www.harleyhouseglass.co.uk/), her uncle’s house, favorite adventure places from her childhood. And so many more. She reminded us that she considers herself ‘Cornish’ and ‘British’, but not ‘English’. She and her husband travel to Brittany each year, and we learned of the connected histories of the Bretons and the Cornish. There are Cornish words everywhere, even though very few (if any?!) people speak the native language anymore. ‘Porth’ means beach, ‘Chy’ means house, and so many other place names. Fascinating history here!
We walked above and then along an amazing 3 mile beach at Hayle, delighted in the light reflected from the dizzying amount of blues of the ocean here and the white sand, and through the wide, tall dunes. The light and ocean color here are really quite special, and attracted many artists to St. Ives like sculptor Barbara Hepworth. There is an extension of the famous Tate Gallery in the town to highlight all the creative work produced. St. Ives is an artist and creative mecca, and I was thankful I had an 18lb backpack on back and could not add any more to my load.
Highpoints today were bluebells and daffodils and thinking of my dad, for both spring flowers I associate with him and stories he shared of his childhood with his grandfather. Low point was that finally a blister has appeared.
We eventually made it to our destination, a campground opposite the very pretty old church in Gwithian. We set the tent up (before dark this time, and I sort of helped Kimberly who is so much more competent than I am as intrepid independent traveler) did laundry, and are now in the inn across the street wolfing down delicious food and pints trying to refuel for tomorrow. As I checked in, the receptionist at the campsite suggested we get a very early start tomorrow as 41 mph winds are expected by 11am! I am definitely hoping for the changeable English weather to appear and bring a little more sunshine to us.
