14 miles, 2,694ft of ascent, started at 9:03am, finished just before 5pm. Long day, hard day. Today marks 7 weeks of this journey, which turned out to be six of walking and one of rest. Today also marks 430 miles total walked. That amazes me; I didn’t really expect my achey, weak joints to last this long, but so far so good. I’m still in good spirits too. It’s a rare day when I don’t want to put on my hiking pants, lace up my shoes and throw on the pack. There are so many interesting things to see and learn about, and so many kind people to meet, that the days just roll along and the miles are done before I feel mopey.
Today was a real tough one though. I’m sure part of that was due to most descriptions of this second Pennine Way day classify it as ‘a fine day, not too bad.” They lie. There were some serious ups and downs, reminded me of the South West Coast Path, and it is WET. The sky did try to pour down, but just managed some occasional spitting. Just in case, I wore my waterproof pants and coat all day: not super comfortable. The wetness came from the ground; it oozed up, flowed over, sunk pathway stones, spilled over creeksides, filled reservoirs.
We started the day crossing Torside reservoir, and then the path entered a sweet little forest of planted trees. Deceptively easy beginning. Eventually we headed up into the moors, up and up to the high point of Black Hill. We walked up the first wide valley alongside Crowden Brook, which was delightfully babbling. Up the path rose on the edge of a steep drop off. It grew narrow and muddy. I started hopping back and forth to use the minimal grassy clumps to keep my feet dry. A frog jumped into a puddle just as I jumped across it. We both startled. The climb was worth it because when I turned around the view took my breath away. Gorgeous. And impressive at the height I had achieved.
My cheerful mood didn’t last much longer. The path grew muddier, hillier and steeper with some big rocks to climb up, cloughs to climb into and out of, and creeks to ford - I stopped counting at 25. It has rained hard the last two nights and the moor is a giant sponge. It holds the water till it can’t anymore, then it just runs off everywhere. Great news for all the reservoirs we had to walk around, and where the trails were dry and easy (at least six I think), but the stone paving is sinking in many parts and the trail is mainly a small waterway to wade in. I eventually gave up bog hopping and stomped through the water and mud. My water proof boots are not really so, and my feet were wet. Not great for the blister situation, but nothing to be done about it. Tomorrow should be dryer; I’ve let my feet know.
The wind became fierce as we crested Black Hill, but we sheltered there behind the Trig point to have lunch and rest a bit. It was a bit depressing to see we had made only 5 miles in just over 3 hours, but the boggy conditions really slow you down and wear you out. We carried on, met up with some other walkers to help each other cross the larger creek. It had to be crossed back and forth at least four times. They had no poles, so we shared ours, throwing them back across to them because it was quite deep, fast flowing and treacherous and nobody wanted to slip. Exciting times.
We walked on, the miles passing with the sound of a cuckoo, a pair of very angry curlews protecting their nest site from us as they swooped and squawked closer and closer, a few hardy sheep, and one windswept sad tree. The sheep had made happy use of it, though, scratching some extra fleece off. Bill grew tired and decided it was time for a quick catnap at some point, while I stretched my calves and enjoyed the Cadbury shortcakes the pub had put in my pack lunch. Oh, I also crossed paths with another LeJogger - the 8th one I’ve met since April 1st. Since there is no specific route it is fun to exchange notes and ideas about the trip. He’s not walking the Pennine Way, just walking across it for the day on his way to Leeds.
This was a hard day, but at the end of it there are definite highlight reel moments like the cute little frog and the amazing views when they opened up. I feel good and ready for tomorrow!
