After a yummy breakfast of incredibly creamy local yogurt, free range poached eggs and avocado in the sunny conservatory, we left the farm B&B with a lunch handed to us by Emma, our very hospitable host. It was a slightly easier day, just under 12 miles and only two ups and downs from the cliffs. One of those climbs though was the toughest and steepest so far. Loose gravel, no flattish place to stop, just up and up. Took a good while to catch my breath at the top.
The weather report suggested light rain showers by afternoon, but nothing but sunshine for us, and the gentlest of breezes. I took more time to let my mind wander and reflect as the day’s path was easy. We finally had the spectacular views back along the coast from where we had come days earlier. It looked a long way! We crossed the beach at Widemouth Bay where a family was laughing hard playing a fierce game of cricket-something rarely played on the beaches of California.
Insects were out in full force, enjoying all the flowers in full bloom. The smells were delicious, and the buzzing about of all the little flying creatures now the wind gentler was very uplifting. The bumble bees are huge, and flying around so slowly, laden with pollen I guess, that I could almost get a photo of them. I saw a little dead vole lying across the path, and I was a bit excited because they’re so small, shy and ground dwelling you don’t often get a chance to see one. No photo because I felt it inappropriate and wanted to honor its dear short life. I thought about all the life spotted so far on the path, dogs, sleepy cats, sheep and cows, more dogs, horses, to be sure, but also: a few quick lizards scurrying into the brambles, three furry ponies grazing on the ocean side of the trail, roe deer in fields above silhouetted against blue sky, bunnies hopping away at our approach into their vast warrens, very big Atlantic seals, and more birds sighted and heard than I ever have in a two week period. I wish I knew their names (only robins, wood pigeons, seagulls, blackbirds, and crows I’m sure about), and I was tempted this morning to reinstall the Merlin bird identifier app on my phone because the songs at sunrise were astounding from the tent. But then I decided not to reach out for the information easy at my fingertips, that wouldn’t add to the beauty and complexity of the birds’ voices; instead I just let their whistles, tweets and chirps gently wake me up. Sunrise symphony.
We made it to Bude yesterday in time for Kimberly to swim a few laps in the 1930 built sea pool. A highlight she has been looking forward to, and you can’t go in near high tide. Swim swam, we headed to the launderette, pharmacy to restock lotion and toothpaste (drugstore in USA), and grabbed a bite to eat. Phones charged, clothes clean, food obtained, we headed to our barebones campsite up on the hill. The rain held off till late into the night.
Today is for resting and catching up on ‘business’ stuff for planning the trip a few weeks ahead (routes, accommodation, meals, sights I must not miss, coordination with friends who will try to join me for a day or so). One of the tasks was to buy a new battery pack as mine had gotten wet and failed. We thought it hilarious that having chosen the one I wanted, I was to put it in ‘the trolley’. Makes perfect sense really, and just the same as putting an item in ‘the cart’ in the US; just a funny quirk of vocabulary. But a smile and chuckle is always a good thing. It is colder, wetter, and the library is closed. I found the 19th century “castle” museum and cafe however a very welcoming place to spend the day. My leg is much, much better, blisters still held at bay, cold lingering but walking does it good so tomorrow will feel better I’m sure. Kimberly has gone out swimming again in the frigid water. Brrrr. I’m enjoying my third pot of tea and a scone. I miss my granddaughter, children, Bill, and my doggie, but feel so fortunate to be able to take on this walking for months. I am tired but nourished, and feel things shifting about inside.
